Tuesday, 23 August 2011

Aberdeenshire and Braemar

After driving around the outskirts of Aberdeen to find a camp site to no avail we stopped around 23 miles inland at a  lovely site next to the river Dee. Didn't get back to Aberdeen as only staying one night so it's on the check list for another day. Apparantly this was the nearest campsite to the 'capital of the north' I think someone's missed a trick her on tourism. Still it did mean we saw another part of the country and had a lovely walk around 8 miles all round along a cycle track and then at the side of the river where we saw a very big salmon leap up out of the river. A fisherman was up to the top of his thighs in the middle of the river but he missed it. After 4 miles we arrived at a little village where they were serving tea and homemade cakes and scones in the village hall. The little old ladies that served us were making the most of walkers dropping by on a Sunday for their community funds so we went in and had tea in china cups and warm buttered scones - it was like a mirage in a desert.
We moved on the next day to Braemar in the heart of the Cairngorm mountains - I've been here before when skiing at Glenshee and it's a magical place. We saw a couple of red squirrels and some red deer as well as an abundance of heather, pine forests and moorland. We must have walked over 10 miles that day but it was such a lovely sunny day and the place is so beautiful. I could live here.

Sunday treat in Braemar outside the Fife Arms


Hope you can read this - Queen Victoria's outing with John Brown (Balmoral just down the road)


Giant ant nest  - heaving with millions of the little creatures

We stayed a couple of nights and then moved down through the glen to Forfar just above Dundee

Loch Ness, Culloden, Inverness and Nairn

Left the Isle of Skye and travelled to the edge of Loch Ness at Fort Augustus. Found a good site in the village and had a lovely day looking at the boats coming off the Loch and into the Caledonian Canal for the passage across from one side of the country to the other. The canal was built by Thomas Telford in the 1790's and is still used today via a series of locks for small boats, yachts, barges, long boats etc.
Fort Augustus is a haven for the rich with their yachts and the local pub reflects that - we went out for a drink at the local pub in the evening and paid over £8.00 for half a beer and a glass of wine! We moved on the next day up the side of the loch - it's enormous.

Just north of Fort Augustus - a clog shop

Arrived at Culloden just a few miles outside Inverness where we were booked in for a couple of nights. We visited the museum of the battle of Culloden and the battle fields. It was the final battle that changed the path of history and had a real impact on me - fascinating history and worth a visit.
We spent a day in Inverness, a modern city and looked around the shops and yet another museum showing the geology of the area - how the mountains were formed and the role of the clans in shaping the future . At one point I tried on a traditional kilt - you had to lay on the floor to put it on - it was so bulky I don't know how they managed to do anything let alone fight.

Inverness castle

The following day we moved on to Nairn - we were not staying there, just visiting. What a fabulous place, it's on the Moray Firth and has a great sandy beach with rock pools, lots of parks and they were just setting up their Highland games for the next day. I wanted to stay but had already pre-booked the next site, so we decided to make it a priority visit next time in Scotland.

Nairn rock pools - I think these birds are Dunlins - red beaks and legs

We moved on to Huntly - the home of many of the whisky companies. The area is completely different there, quite flat and agricultural. It had lots of sports facilities but the town looked quite run down and presume it has suffered from the recession. We moved on to the Aberdeen area the next day

Monday, 22 August 2011

Isle of Skye

We went over to Skye via the Bridge and headed North to our farm site - previously booked.
We stocked up with food as I thought it might be remote and it was! Two miles down a track in a field - there was one other caravan with no occupants and the field was boggy. The farm where we were supposed to pay our £8.00 per night was also not occupied - so we were on our own in the wilderness. It was cold and wet so we stayed in and cooked - no tele, no website and no mobile so we played trionimos and then went to bed. Moved on the next day but the bonus was we saw 2 eagles as we left and headed over to Dunvegan on the other side of the island.

As we arrived at Dunvegan we saw a campsite next to the loch and managed to book in - we had a pitch right next to the edge of the loch and the sunset was stunning - see picture. I've never seen anything like it - the clouds first turned a mottly pink grey and then the pink went deeper until the water and the hillside were red. This must be like the northern lights and it makes me want to see that as well. The next morning we visited Dunvegan castle - the home of the McCleod clan - a really homely house with lots of history.
We left there around 2.30pm and went up the coast to a little fishing village with the oldest pub on the island - I tasted the beer made specially for the pub - The Stein Inn was built in 1790 - the ale - Sliding Deck - best beer I've ever tasted
We left the island the next day and vowed we would return a magical place to be - rugged but beautiful.

Saturday, 13 August 2011

Photos and Morvich, Bridge of Shiel

We're parked just across from the Isle of Skye and will be going over tomorrow morning. Morvich is a tiny hamlet in the middle of the mountains with very little in the way of shops or restaurants (well the nearest is around a (Scottish) mile - which we reckon is around two). Have just walked to a little shop near the bridge to buy a bottle of wine which has cost me £7.99 at least £2.00 more than what I normally pay - but I need it tonight after my 10 mile hike down the glen.
We set off down the trail at 10.00am this morning and saw no one except sheep and cows. The scenery was stunning with sheer rock faces at either side and the river in the bottom - all the rain we've had was flowing down the mountain sides and into the river in a series of waterfalls down the glen. It continued to rain - but that was beneficial as it kept the midges at bay and now we're geared up for it - it  becomes part of what we've become accustomed too and doesn't stop us going out in the rain.
Attached some of the photos from the past week.
Note the Scottish lingo

Bay at Fort William

Ornish Campsite - right on the water

Walking down the glen at Morvich

The view before us as we walk down the glen

One of the many waterfalls

Gushing streams from the mountains

Viewpoint at Glen Garry - spectacular

We're staying on the island tomorrow as have booked a CL site (the only one) on Skye - would doubt if there's any internet so will do a post in a couple of days.  

Friday, 12 August 2011

Welcome to Scotland

We set off around ten days ago and spent the first week in and around Durham before heading further north into the wild blue yonder. For anyone who has never been around the Durham area - it's a place to visit with beautiful scenery and lots of tea shops and cafe's with home baked scones and quiches. We stopped at the caravan club sites at Richmond (I know that's North Yorks), Barnard Castle, Durham and then went on to a 'UK Campsites' site in Consett - this was where the rain set in and it poured and poured. We headed off for Jedburgh the next morning and stayed on a farm site near Kellso - this little town is a place to re-visit - it's pretty, has nice shops and a castle - will probably call for a longer look on the way back down. From there we headed up to Lochearnhead a little to the west of Stirling. This was a CL site on the trout farm and right on the shores of Loch Earn. It was a nice sight but it lacked the amenities of local walks as the mountain sides were so high - the place was a haven for watersports and fishing - neither of which we wanted to do. The next morning we set off for Oban - what a wonderful setting just up from Oban itself the sight overlooking the loch - it was idyllic to wake up in a morning and gaze across the loch / firth. Oban was easy to get to by local transport so we hopeed on a bus to discover the delights of the town. We stayed two nights in Oban but the second day it rained without stopping the whole of the time - even so we went out for long walks and got soaked to the skin. Invested in overtrousers and a rainhat.
Moved up to Fort William for the following night - weather starting to clear up and we're now just about ready to move off to the Bridge of Shiel - opposite the Isle of Skye.
Stay posted for the next installment